It’s a rare treat to feel completely at home in a B&B. We knew we’d hit on a gem when we arrived at L'épicerie du Pape; 5 minutes into arrival our inimitable host François had cracked open a bottle of the local cider and had a map out marking all the local hotspots. Before we knew it, Alethea was taking a dip in the vintage bathtub, and we were kicking back in the deck chairs outside our ‘Kabane du Pape', with our new companion Ernestine, the attentive black labrador.
Located in a small, picturesque village Vascoeuil, in the Haute-Normandie region of France, L'épicerie du Pape is a beautiful former grocer’s shop/café that has been lovingly converted into a guesthouse, full of eclectic junkshop and fleamarket finds; in every nook you find a well-curated selection of antiques and curios; there’s a subtle mixing of styles, patterns and colours, that emphasises the beauty of objects that have seen a bit of life.
Our accommodation for 2 nights was in a cosy wooden ‘kabane’ in the garden, made François told me, using environmently-friendly materials such as untreated wool for insulation, solvent-free paints and recycled objects such as a zinc cow trough for the bath/shower. Our daughter was over the moon to have exclusive use of the vintage Ériba Puck caravan beside it.
We were en route to the annual Bradérie de Lille – Europe’s largest fleamarket, where the streets are closed to traffic for the whole weekend; and residents can sell their wares to the public. Ten thousand stalls along 200km of pavement; from moth-eaten taxidermy to 19th century cut-glass chandeliers; for lovers of flea markets, this is the ultimate in street sales. When every inch of pavement is the trading floor, you never know what gems you’ll find.
It was in Lille that we hoped to find some bargain antiques but it was clear that hosts Karine and François have been doing the rounds of all the good markets for years: their home is a marvel, each piece has been carefully selected to fit a guest home that seamlessly oozes style and comfort; i.e. round the wooden farmhouse dining table is a mix of straw-bottomed chairs and Tolix bistro chairs; stern industrial lights in different corners of the room are balanced out with a pretty 19th century chandelier over the table that creates a warm, welcoming glow. All over the house you find furniture and objects that have been perfectly curated by Karine’s unique taste and eye for character and quality.
Not far from the house (just 10km away) is the majestic forest of Lyons – the largest beech forest in Europe, passing through it you arrive at the quaint Lyons-la-Forêt, which at the time we visited, was largely taken over by a film crew, shooting scenes in the market square for Gemma Bovery, directed by Anna Fontaine, and starring Gemma Arterton.
During our 2-night stay we barely touched on an area that has lots more to offer. We’ll definitely be back to Haute-Normandie, and would highly recommend a stay at L'épicerie du Pape.
L'épicerie du Pape, 5 Rue de la Ferme, 27910 Vascœuil, France
+33 2 35 23 64 37
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