14th March 2006
HOI AN
Drove past the memorable Marble Mountains en route to Hoi An. A real highlight of the trip so far has been this UNESCO World Heritage Site. Hoi An is an exceptionally well-preserved example of a Southeast Asian trading port dating from the 15th to the 19th century. Its buildings and its street plan reflect both indigenous and foreign influences. You can get lost for days wandering the streets, or take a ride along the banks of the Mekong, past the paddy fields to the beach.
Visited Ly’s café on Nyugen Hue to meet Ly, who has owned this restaurant for the past 10 years. I’d been sent to say hello from F and taste her Cao Lao. I expected someone older but instead was warmly greeted by a beautiful, trendy young woman who smelt really good too! I was lucky to stumble on the place as I’d forgotten the address, and the strange thing is that I didn’t realise I was at Ly’s until I picked up the menu! I’d left it quite late to look for a meal (10pm) so most places had shut up. I’d be attracted to the place as I’d seen a red lantern glowing off the main thoroughfare of Tran Phu, and when I approached, an old man had smiled at me and ushered me in. Sometimes I believe you are meant to be somewhere and tonight I’d hit gold. Despite the kitchen being officially closed, I got a fresh bowl of Cao Lao and tucked straight in. Based on the soba noodle soups of Japan, this local speciality contains thin slices of grilled pork, rice noodles, crispy squares of pork fat, bean sprouts and greens. It is traditionally served with a flat, crisp rice cracker, which you can crack and crumble into the dish, then add rice vinegar, stir and then enjoy! I welcomed the crunchy texture created by the pork and rice ‘croutons’, which balanced well with the soft noodles and tangy limejuice. All washed down with Biere Larue, which is a crisp, refreshing local beer from Danang. Have no idea why people drink Tiger out here, it’s full of chemicals and gives you a horrendous hangover.
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