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Athens off season hits the spot



Returning to Athens has been bittersweet. As much as I love this city, it has been hard to return without my sister, where we had our best times together. Holding back the tears I smiled thinking of her reaction as I sped into central Athens, with a driver who seemed more interested in learning my life story than driving with due care. 

In equal horror and admiration I nervously eyed the abandoned steering wheel as he drove cigarette in one hand, mobile phone in the other; simultaneously placating his irate mistress, while madly gesticulating at the congested road ahead. Relating in detail the woes of modern Greece in broken English I couldn’t help but silently applaud his multi-tasking capabilities and unflagging optimism. 

Athens in the winter is a lack back affair; the restaurants are much quieter, shop opening hours are limited, the pace of life is generally more subdued, but once the sun makes an appearance, the Greeks descend the streets to walk their daily ‘volta’ and normal service resumes. In fact March is a great time to be in Athens if you want to explore at leisure without the crowds, pollution and heat. One minute you’re strolling along Ermou, the commercial shopping street, the next you’ve stumbled upon a a centuries-old monument in the midst of all the modernity.

Since the Greek capital has hit hard times, it has been interesting to see how it has changed. On the surface nothing has – the Athenians go about their daily lives, seamlessly mixing business with pleasure while finding inventive ways of getting around the smoking ban! Yet look closer and you notice the disappearance of restaurants and tavernas, replaced by fast food chains and cafés. It’s clear the Athenians no longer have the money to eat out every day but the cafés and kafeneions remain packed from day to night. 

Shopping has also taken a back seat; many independent shops have closed and some shopping malls are completely deserted, the escalators switched off; empty shopfronts/shop doorways become makeshift shelters for the homeless. The shops that have survived, are guarded at night by ominous looking mongrels. What’s encouraging to see is that the tavernas that remain have stood the test of time and for good reason; unpretentious Greek classics cooked to perfection, friendly yet professional service, and late openings ensure no meal is rushed. Yamas! 

Must-dos in Athens
  • Join in early evening volta along the pedestrianised Dionysios Aeropagitou from Acropolis Station
  • Take a picnic or sundowner to Ario Pagos hill overlooking the Acropolis
  • Have an early breakfast at the New Acropolis Museum and enjoy the museum before the masses arrive
  • Run a lap round the 4th century Panathenaic Stadium, built entirely of beautiful Penteli white marble
  • Eat at a traditional Greek taverna such as Filistron (23 Apostolou Pavlou Str)
  • Escape the city for the hot springs of Lake Vouliagmeni or the trendy seaside resort of Glyfada
  • Head to Thession for late night drinks and end the night at SVL Bar (15 Thisiou & Adrianou Str) for an obligatory souvlaki.


New Acropolis Museum, Athens



View of Acropolis, Athens with rainbow


Herb seller at Central Market, Athens


Panathenaic Stadium, Athens




Yiayia and pateras

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