15th March 2005
HOI AN
Staying at Ancient House Resort on Cua Dia, a small boutique hotel with spacious, immaculate and stylish rooms. Can imagine that this would be a good place for honeymooners, as the service is discreet and the gardens and pool are beautiful. Got an upgrade on the second day to a room with a balcony so I can now sit outside and write, which is a marked improvement.
I get free bike rental here so I’ve been out exploring. Riding a bike after so long and in Asia was a thrilling experience. Make me think how much quicker I could get about and see so much more. Today I cycled off the beaten track for a good 2 hours until I came to a boatyard where I pulled up for a refreshing drink. Don’t think these people see many white faces round here. I was drinking alone then suddenly there were about 15 faces staring at me. Curiosity got the better of one old man who hopped on his moped and escorted me down the road! I noticed that even this far out, huge speakers blast out propaganda messages – I sympathise for the poor family who get to have the speaker right next to their window!
Hoi An is renowned for its tailors, who will custom make any item of clothing you dream up. The streets are lined with hundreds of tailor shops with mannequins parading all the latest styles and fabrics. This is a shopper’s paradise, and if you want a copy of any designer item, this is the place to come, and you’ll still have change for lunch too.
I chose Yaly Couture, 47 Nguyen Thai Hoc, after a few recommendations. It is more expensive than other shops here but I’ve been told the quality is better. The word has obviously got out about Yaly as it is the most popular in town. There’s a constant stream of people being measured or coming for their second or third fitting. Watched a group of Italian men getting lots of attention as they pranced about in their new suits. Surely a good sign if the Italians are here..
When you first enter the shop, you can browse the rails of samples or flick through the catalogues to choose a design. I’d come prepared, with a pair of trousers and a dress that I wanted copying. Melissa, a beautiful Sales Assistant dressed in a chocolate brown Ao dai, a close-fitting blouse with long panels on front and back, worn over cream trousers, helped me choose materials. Once you’ve given the go-ahead, you are ushered into another room where you are meticulously measured from top to bottom. Melissa shouts out various numbers to another girl who writes them all down in a big black book. A photo is also taken to help the tailors see your body shape. The whole experience is fun and there is a real buzz about the place that is helped along by the constant humming from the sewing machines upstairs and the tailors who run up and down with new items ready for fitting. I got so carried away that I ordered a suit and a camisole, as I’d found some beautiful chocolate silk with dragonflies on that I had to have! Hoping to get behind the scenes tomorrow and meet the owner.
Went for dinner at The Mango Rooms, 111 Nyugen Trai Hoc, which is run by the charismatic Duc, a Viet-Kieu with a big smile and great taste in shirts. The menu is Asian-fusion and makes a nice change from traditional Vietnamese food. The interior is vibrant and colourful, with formal-ish dining to the front of the restaurant, and a more intimate, laid-back vibe in the back room. Walk through the kitchen and say hello to the chefs on your way to the back room where you can sit on raised tatami mats and watch fishing boats pass on the river. Choosing what to eat is difficult, as it all sounds so delicious! Just ask the friendly staff for their recommendations. Despite having a slightly dodgy stomach, I opted for Exotic Dance: ginger and garlic king prawns, wrapped in beef with a peppery butter-soy sauce. This was exceptional but my stomach did not enjoy the spices so much to my disappointment, I had to opt for ginger tea for dessert. Will have to return tomorrow.
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