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Hoi An tailors


16th March 2005

HOI AN

Got up early to cycle down to the local market to watch the locals haggling over fish, spices and vegetables. People buy their fresh products every day, sometimes twice a day, so they take real joy in selecting the perfect ingredient each time. Went back to the Mango Rooms for a light lunch and enjoyed a nice chat with Duc and his friends. Had dessert at Tam Tam Café opposite; I’m not a big fan of ice cream normally but since I’ve been in Vietnam, I’ve developed a real taste for it. I had lemon and mango sorbet, and vanilla ice-cream, which came decorated with long strips of yellow, red and green sugared papaya delicately curled around each scoop, topped off with a green papaya cigarette shaped wafer – heaven!

Then headed off for my third (and final) fitting at Yaly, praying that I’d still fit into my suit after this indulgence. The suit and two pairs of trousers fitted like a dream but my camisole was sadly far too small to fit over my head. So while I waited for the alterations, Ngu, the resident beauty queen, gave me a manicure and pedicure. Propped myself up on the safe while she took control of my bruised and tired feet. Even got a lush foot massage! Got to watch the money woman in action, gleefully counting the notes as a steady stream of Westerners paid for their clothes. Not one person had a complaint and I was impressed that they packaged up and labelled all the items too. A nice touch.

Finally got to interview the boss, Quynh Trinh Diem and got a very interesting insight into how the business is run and why the industry is thriving. She took me upstairs to give me a tour of the workshop and introduced me to the main tailors, seamstresses and embroiderers. I’d expected to find a sweatshop of bored and frustrated workers but Quynh was so proud of her happy workforce that she left me to wander round, take photos and talk to whoever I wished. I wanted to find out whether the staff had any grievances about working long hours to meet traveller’s deadlines. I was pleased to discover that they seemed to enjoy the challenge of creating different garments each day. I’ve got loads of interesting material from this visit so I think there’s an article or two to be written on the subject.

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