BLOGetc

Where to do your big Xmas shop

2008-12-17T10:42:00.000-08:00

With the big Xmas shop nearly upon us, I thought it apt to post this report from Ethical Consumer. In case you are wondering where to go, this report may sway you. And with credit crunched shoppers turning to the hard discounters (Aldi, Lidl and Netto) what’s the true cost of bargain shopping?

Ethical Consumer has released a new report on the social and environmental records of 19 supermarket and convenience store chains.

The report contains a detailed breakdown of the chains’ environmental reporting – the best rating goes to Co-op, M&S, and, consumers’ will be surprised to learn, Budgens and Londis (both owned by the Musgrove Group).

Progressive policies on product sourcing are reviewed - from animal welfare to timber sourcing – with Waitrose, M&S, Sainsbury and the Co-op clear leaders.

Consumers’ concerned with animal testing policy will be surprised to learn Aldi shares the top spot with M&S and Co-op. Both Co-op and M&S are signed up to BUAV’s humane cosmetic standard - while all Aldi’s (own brand) household products meet campaigners’ demand for a “fixed cut off date” after which ingredients have not been tested on animals (1992).

Much attention has recently gone to the 6.1% market share growth of the hard discounters.

Report author Bryony Moore comments, “Commentators have been surprised to discover the occaisional organic or Fairtrade product on the discounters’ shelves and have mistaken this for evidence of ethical behavior. However our research reveals a continued contempt for values beyond profit in the failure of the hard discounters to even discuss ethical values. In large international companies this type of behavior is no longer excusable.” Netto, Aldi and Lidl all received Ethical consumer’s worst rating for environmental reporting and workers’ rights in the supply chain.

Overall Best Buys
Super stores: M&S (8), Co-op (7), Waitrose (5)
Convenience stores: Co-op (7), Londis (6), Budgens (6)
Best of the regional chains is Booths in the north west (6.5)

Smouldering olive trees scar the Peloponnese in Greece.

2007-09-01T12:01:00.000-07:00

I am saddened to hear the devastation caused by the forest fires in Olympia, Greece, where more than 60 people have been killed since last week. Thousands of internal refugees are now homeless across the Peloponnese. The ancient ruins of Olympia, site of the original Olympic Games, were close to destruction but thankfully an operation involving 15 fire engines supported by aircraft and helicopters managed to save this sacred site.
Approx 4m olive trees have been ravished by the fires so far. These beautiful trees can be exceptionally long-lived, up to several centuries, and can remain productive for as long, provided they are pruned correctly and regularly.The problem is that they grow very slowly, so the landscape will remain naked and scarred for many years to come.
I'm off to Crete in under 3 weeks time, so to pay homage, I plan to seek out an olive tree in Crete, claimed to be over 2,000 years old. Let's hope its still there.

Model eco-mama?

2007-07-20T12:49:00.000-07:00

The new rather special person in my life, Alethea, is 3 months old today. She makes me SO happy. I'm trying my hardest to be the model eco-mama but am faced by daily dilemmas. Time allowing (and boy is it limited right now!) I plan to log all the highs and lows of this new adventure into parenthood.

Energy-intensive gaming

2007-03-14T04:27:00.000-07:00

New owners of the Playstation 3 released in the UK today, might be forgiven for overlooking the impact of their new purchase on the planet amid all the excitement. But the PS3 saps power, consuming 380W, more than double its closest rival, Xbox 360, which runs at 160W, and over EIGHT TIMES more than its predecessor, the PS2, which runs at 45W.
Isn't it time consumers of gadgets and gizmos such as these were given accurate data on the label about their energy efficiency, in the same way that we can for white goods such as fridges and dishwashers?

LU first public body to join Ethical Trading Initiative

2007-01-18T05:58:00.000-08:00

London Underground (LU) has become the first public body to join the Ethical Trading Initiative (ETI) - an alliance of retailers, unions and charities committed to improving workers’ conditions in supplier factories.

LU issues about 300,000 items of uniform a year to its 12,000 staff, much of it made in the Far East and Eastern Europe. Companies supplying LU clothing will now have to demonstrate their efforts towards complying with a set of stringent standards covering health and safety, wages, discrimination and other labour issues.

It remains to be seen whether other public bodies will sign up following this announcement.

Ethical Trading Initiative

It’s not playtime for toy workers in China

2007-01-13T12:04:00.000-08:00

With the news of the imminent arrival, I though it best to get researching on the rather massive area of all things baby related. To my dismay, I’ve discovered that most of the main toy brands have a rather dark side and I’m faced with the ethical dilemma of buying toys for my child that may well have caused distress to someone else’s family. What is clear is that it is very difficult to find ethical toys on the high street and avoid potentially risky chemicals found in plastics.

According to a report by Ethical Consumer, 'sweatshop' labour is still a stark reality in toy factories.

"Although most companies we investigated have signed up to support industry standards, when it comes to their factories, these standards just aren't strict enough. Most companies allow staff to work in excess of 60 hours per week, something that we at Ethical Consumer find unacceptable. Their supply chain codes of conduct also make little provision for ensuring workers earn a 'living wage'. Campaigners consistently tell us that the legal minimum wage in countries such as China just isn't enough for people to live on. Shockingly, some workers aren't even receiving this" commented Ruth Rosselson, the report's author.

Despite the existence of industry standards, campaigners continue to find workers rights violations in Chinese factories. Examples include work schedules of more than eighty hours per week, pay rates below the local minimum wage and overcrowded dormitories. Demand for shorter delivery times and low prices makes meeting any kinds of ethical standard difficult, if not impossible, to achieve.

Ethical Consumer also discovered disappointing environmental performance.

"Many toys are now made from environmentally damaging materials such as plastics. They incorporate technology which uses more energy can be problematic to dispose of. In future, we'd like to see toy companies take environmental issues more seriously and publish comprehensive environmental reports. None of the major brands supplied us with the standard of reporting we'd expect and few had decent policies for the phase-out of 'risky' chemicals, ” concluded Rosselson.

BOTTOM SCORERS (Ethiscore):
Chicco (10)
Mattel (9)
Hasbro (8.5)
Toys R Us (7)
Walt Disney (6)

Thankfully if you are prepared to shop online or source independent fairtrade shops, there are plenty of 'ethical' toy options available, from fairtrade rag dolls to wooden toys made from sustainable sources.

I’m currently compiling a directory of ethical and eco baby resources at WORDetc.

TOP SCORERS (Ethiscore):
Escor Toys (17) Escor Toys
Lanka Kade (16) Lanka Kade
Green Board Games (15.5) Green Board Games
Holz Wooden Toys (15.5) Holz Wooden Toys
Jumping Frog (15.5) Jumping Frog

Ethiscore is a numerical rating (out of 20) designed to allow consumers to compare companies across a range of corporate responsibility issues, including the environment, human and animal rights. The higher the score, the better a company´s ethical record.

Our Daily Bread and Workingman's Death

2006-08-25T06:50:00.000-07:00

News from a few film buff friends of mine in Australia of two good documentaries viewed at Melbourne Film Festival.

Our Daily Bread is a film that enters the lurid world of industrial food production and high-tech farming. Not for the faint-hearted apparently, as about a third of the audience walked out. Bound to send ripples through the industry once it gets released at the London Film Festival this September.

View Our Daily Bread website here

Workingman's Death explores heavy manual labour in the 21st century - down illegal mines in the Ukraine, among the sulfur workers in Indonesia, with lions at a slaughterhouse in Nigeria, ship breaking yards in Pakistan, and Chinese steel workers.
Looks like amazing cinematography.

View Workingman's Death website here

Soy-what?

2006-08-14T06:42:00.000-07:00

McDonald's has agreed to stop buying chicken fed on soya grown in deforested areas of the Amazon rainforest in Brazil.

So what's so bad about soya?

Soya farming is chewing up the Amazon rainforest at unprecedented rates as huge areas are cleared to make way for massive monoculture plantations. The impact is huge, not only on the plants and animals that make up the forest itself but also on the communities that live there. From an illegal port built in the heart of the Amazon by agribusiness giant Cargill to handle the vast quantities of soya being shipped out from the region, soya exported by Cargill goes directly to Europe to feed the chickens found in fast food retailers like McDonald's and supermarkets across Europe.

A campaign by Greenpeace has been so successful that not only have McDonald's made their own pledge, but with the help of Greenpeace, they've been instrumental in getting other food companies and supermarkets, such as Marks & Spencer, Sainsbury's, ASDA and Waitrose, signed up to a zero deforestation policy as well. But it goes even further than that, and pressure from all these companies has forced their suppliers, the big multinational soya companies such as Cargill, to come to the negotiating table.

The result is a two-year moratorium on buying soya from newly deforested areas and, given that Greenpeace's campaign only began in earnest in April, this is a fantastic achievement. Well done Greenpeace. Now it's time for The Colonel of KFC to stop trashing the rainforest too.

McVictory

Urban invasion - space invaders in Barcelona

2006-07-17T14:25:00.000-07:00

Returned to one of my favourite city haunts - Barcelona. Great to see the space invaders are still popping up in unexpected corners. Anyone up for invading Norwich?

Drum Camp

2006-07-10T01:52:00.000-07:00

Anna Mudeka

Back to work after a seriously chilled out weekend at Drum Camp, a small-scale WOMAD in Bungay, Suffolk. The festival was a refreshing change from the usual frenzied affairs; intimate workshops with world-class musicians such as Modou Diouf and Nansady Keita and a truly eclectic mix of evening performances at the Main Stage, from flamenco to bhangra with can-can dancers in between!

As I don't have a musical bone in my body I planned to simply soak up the vibe and enjoy the live music. But the constant drum beats were infectious and it's almost impossible not to pick up one of the many varieties of drums lying around and join in.

So I decided to attend an Indian Dhol workshop with the Dhol Foundation and attempt to learn some bhangra rhythms. The Dhol is a traditional North Indian instrument made from a large wooden shell. It has two skins on either side which are made from goat hide. Rope is then woven through the edge of both the skins and they are tensioned to produce a bass and treble sound. It is extremely loud and is played with sticks made from cane.

You need to be seriously skilled to play the Dhol and strong too as they are so huge and heavy. Johnny Kalsi (previously from The Afro Celt Sound System) led the workshop and brought real humour to the experience, dubbing our rhythms as 'too English' and got us drumming in a more Asian tempo. It did not come naturally but there were a few moments when it sounded vaguely like Bhangra!

The Dhol's Foundation's Saturday evening performance with a full 12-piece band was the highlight of the whole event and a dramatic, frenetic end to the festival. Their performance shows the multifaceted ways in which the dhol can be incorporated into different genres of music, not only Indian, but African, Celtic, Spanish and even electronica. One to watch.

Modou Diouf and Blake Vickers

The charismatic Modou Diouf led several Sabar workshops and also performed with a Tama, or talking drum, which makes incredible machine gun like rhythms. Binta Badjie provided a powerfully mesmerising dance accompaniment.

Amazing that Gary Newland, the event organiser, has managed to keep this event running for 11 years without it becoming too big. I do hope it stays that way as I plan to return next year to learn the djembe.

School of thought

2006-06-26T09:47:00.000-07:00

I spent many an hour in this nook of Bedales library poring over texts of Zola and Beckett. I used to love staring out onto the apple orchard dreaming of becoming a famous writer and having my book placed in this section. Sadly nowhere near that goal yet but at least my name may crop up from time to time in their new magazine section! Returning here after 10 years made me realise that very little changes in this space of time. The library smells exactly as it did, the globe still glows and the teachers remain timeless masterpieces. So I guess there's plenty more time to write that chef d'oeuvre; the 25 year reunion should be about right.

The Codfather

2006-06-21T03:09:00.000-07:00

According to an article in The Times today, mafia-style gangs from Russia are plundering protected stocks of cod and then laundering their illegally-caught hauls through fishing ports in Britain.
Read the rest of the article here: How the fish on your plate makes you an accessory to crime at sea

Some interesting facts in it too:

FALLING CATCHES

How quotas have altered over the last five years:
Cod down 15% to 20,180 tonnes
Herring down 15% to 100,304 tonnes
Whiting down 15% to 11,796 tonnes
Haddock down 13% to 42,770 tonnes
North Sea prawns up 32% to 1,418 tonnes
Hake up 3% to 4,699 tonnes

So next time you head down the chip shop, why not opt for something less endangered such as hake, colney or Dover sole. it will taste even more delicious than your usual cod. The Marine Conservation Society (MCS) publishes a Good Fish Guide and you can find out Species to Eat and Species to Avoid.

It has compiled a “Sustainable Seafood Supermarket League Table”, based on the performance of the ten main UK supermarkets against various criteria including the sustainability of the fish they sell.

At the top of the MCS League Table is Marks and Spencer – the UK’s number one retailer for sustainable fish – as they only sell one fish from the MCS Fish to Avoid list, sell 15 species from the MCS Fish to Eat List and have the most sustainable policies for both capture and farmed fish. Waitrose and Sainsburys are placed second and third respectively, with Waitrose selling the greatest number of fish from the MCS Fish to Eat list (20) and Sainsburys the greatest number of Marine Stewardship Council (MSC) certified products (16). Tescos (placed 4) sells 14 species from the MCS Fish to Eat list and 80% of the CoOp’s (placed 5) tuna is pole and line-caught dolphin-friendly tuna (skipjack) from the Maldives - where all net fishing is banned and all marine mammals and turtles are protected. Morrisons (placed 6) sells 15 species from the Fish to Eat List, Asda (placed 7) 10 species, Somerfield (placed 8) 7 species and Iceland (placed 9) 1 species. Bottom of the League Table by default is Lidl from whom MCS has been unable to obtain any information at all.

Blog of the Month

2006-06-20T02:35:00.000-07:00

Exciting news today as I found out that BLOGetc has been given the accolade of Blog of the Month in the Summer edition of The Chronicle. Delighted to know that my blog is being read. I'm now more determined than ever to write as often as possible and win lots more awards!

Experiment and Tradition at Voewood

2006-06-17T12:24:00.000-07:00

Mary Gaitskill at Voewood

I love Norfolk in the summer. Made the most of the glorious weather this weekend at the Voewood Literary Fete, High Kelling, Holt. Set in the grounds of the beautiful country house Voewood, it was the perfect setting for a picnic and my first delicious Pimms of the summer (why does the first Pimms always taste the best?). I enjoyed Mary Gaitskill's lyrical, poetic reading from her new novel Veronica and although I had no idea what Yang Lian (poet now resident in London after his work was banned in China) was reciting in Chinese, it sounded beautiful. His short, sharp, heavily punctuated words seemed to bounce seamlessly through the humid evening air.

Met Voewood's eccentric proprietor Simon Finch and marvelled at his exquisite taste in furnishing and renovating this fine example of Arts and Craft architecture. Voewood was built by E.S. Prior for Percy Lloyd between 1903-5, and cost the staggering sum of £60,000 to construct. A rich combination of concrete, flint, and stone decorate this fine example of the Arts and Craft movement. Pervsner praises Voewood as by ‘far the most interesting building in this part of Norfolk a violently idiosyncratic house reminiscent of Gaudi’s work in Barcelona’.

New form of advertising?

2006-06-08T04:18:00.000-07:00

Is it just me or is advertising getting even more 'in yer face' than ever before? Never seen this before - advertising for cheap flights by BA via a projector onto a side wall on Old Street - images flashed up on rotation every few minutes. No idea where the projector is hidden or how they got planning permission but it certainly catches your eye as you walk past. Must be really annoying for residents but reminded me of the recurring debate about low cost flights and carbon emissions. Just written an article on responsible tourism for Sprouts magazine and discovered that short flights are more polluting per passenger mile than long-haul flights as take-off and landings generate a significant part of the total emissions per flight.

Pacific encounters

2006-05-18T02:15:00.000-07:00

Feathered head
Hawaiian Islands, Late eighteenth century
Feathers, basketry, fibre, dog canine teeth, pearl shell, wood
H. 81.0 cm, HAW 80
The British Museum

Went to the re-opening of the Sainsbury Centre for Visual Arts at the University of East Anglia and was impressed by the refurbishment and launch exhibition: Pacific Encounters: Art and Divinity in Polynesia 1760-1860. A wooden bowl, supported by two figures with shell eyes and teeth of cut boars' tusks, is just one of 270 rare and extraordinary sculptures, ornaments and textiles in the exhibition; striking giant feathered heads from the Hawaiian Islands with dogs teeth and pearl shell eyes and woven feathered helmets, all used as ritual objects. The red, black and yellow feathers came from honeycreepers unique to the islands. One, a rare U-shaped breast pendant from the Marquesas Islands seen at Tahuata during Cook's second voyage in April 1774, has hundreds of red and black abrus seeds gummed to the upper surface of its whitened wood base, all still intact.
I was struck by how modern the artefacts looked and how well they have survived. One of the earliest documented surviving artefacts collected from Polynesia is a mid-eighteenth century canoe and is in remarkably good condition. The hull is composed of 45 wood sections bound together with continuous lengths of plaited coir cordage covering battens of split coconut leaf midrib. You can even see the burn marks from the fishermen's hand lines grooved into the sides. Amazing.
The Sainsbury Centre has also undergone major changes since it opened in 1978. Designed by my old boss Lord Foster, the building is an early example of a low-energy 'green' architecture, and was well ahead of its time. There is now a new public link between the main building and the Crescent wing extension and an excellent gift shop and education studio. I plan to spend lots more time in this beautifully calming space.
Pacific Encounters runs from May 21 to August 13, Tuesday to Sunday. Admission is free.

The new rocket fuel

2006-05-06T13:59:00.000-07:00

Just returned from two weeks in London, where I've been freelancing for a specialist provider of financial information on the renewable and clean energy industries worldwide. The work has given me a clearer picture of the technology being developed to support the growing interest and funding being directed at the sector.

No more is this evident than in the NEX, a global index, which tracks the performance of 'companies worldwide whose technologies and services focus on the generation and use of renewable energy, conservation and efficiency, and advancement of low-carbon energy solutions.' A quarterly update on the performance of the NEX shows a gain of 25.3% in the first quarter of 2006. An increased interest from investors and the effects of rising oil and gas prices have contributed to this rise. The best performing sector was biofuels, biomass and waste-to-energy sector. Ethanol and biodiesel could well be the fuels of the future.

My rocket fuel has been provided by the delicious Vietnamese restaurants on Kingsland Road, aka 'Little Vietnam'. I took on the gastronomic challenge of eating in every Vietnamese on Kingsland Road, in an attempt to find the best bowl of Pho. The mission was fuelled purely by my insatiable appetite for Pho.

I decided to try Viet Grill, 58 Kingsland Road E2 8DP, a new addition to the strip from the owner of Cay Tre on Old Street. More formal dining than most round here, the experience lacks the intimacy and buzz of eating in a canteen-style restaurant. My first bowl of Pho Bo Tai since Vietnam was good but not outstanding. The Viet Grill's house speciality of Cha Ca was better and worth trying until you can make it to Cha Ca La Vong in Hanoi.

Song Que, 134 Kingsland Road has 28 types of Pho so if you really want to know which type you like, come here. Don't be put off by the bland, unappealing descriptions, just choose one and tuck in. You'll be back to try the next one on the list before you know it.

The overall winner by far is Viet Hoa, 70 Kingsland Road. I've been coming here for over four years and despite two weeks of trying all the other restaurants, this remains the best. Go for the Special Pho and you won't be disappointed. Excellent service and smiles all round too.

If anyone in London thinks they know a better place to eat Pho in London, please let me know!

Au revoir Viet Nam

2006-04-04T15:30:00.000-07:00

22nd March 2006

LAST DAY IN VIETNAM

A sobering last day in Vietnam as I chose somewhat perversely to visit the War Remnants Museum, 28 Vo Van Tan, District 3. I needed an excuse to cry, and boy did I get it. Every visitor to Vietnam needs to come here to put it all in perspective. As I looked at the photographs taken by brave war photographers, I couldn’t help but draw parallels with what is happening in Iraq. Have we learnt nothing from these atrocities?

Had my last lunch date with T at TIB, 187 Hai Ba Trung District 3, which serves Vietnamese food from Hue region. Tried deep-fried soft-shell crab, which you dip into a lime and salt dip. Yummy. Did a last dash to Ben Thanh market to buy freshly ground coffee, where I saw a rat the size of a small cat scurry past me. Even the trader shrieked with shock – don’t think she’s seen one that big before either! So, to my last meal in Vietnam. It had to be my absolute favourite, a bowl of soothing pho, to take me on my way. I linger over it for as long as possible, slowly slurping my noodles and nibbling my bean spouts, ensuring I have just enough tender beef to finish my last mouthful of heaven. Yes, heaven in a bowl – how will feed my addiction when I return home? Thank goodness my sister lives a stone’s throw from ‘Little Vietnam’, Kingsland Road in London, E2.

2006-04-04T15:26:00.000-07:00

21st March 2006

LAST NIGHT IN VIETNAM

Arrived back In Ho Chi Minh City in time to go out for dinner with T and S. We went to the Temple Club, 29 Ton That Tiep, District 1. The Luxe guide describes the place as ‘excellent Vietnamese fare with flair’ and I tend to agree. Loved the antique fittings and screens that added to the sense of intimacy. Apparently Terence Conran, Ralph Fiennes and Jeremy Irons like to go here but I’m yet to see one celebrity here! Then on for cocktails at the rooftop terrace of Caravelle: Saigon Saigon, 19 Lam Son Square, District 1 – great views of both the skyline and the girls ‘working’ the rich tourists. The evening would not have been complete without a final Passion fruit Martini at Q Bar. And I was saved the debauchery of Apocalypse Now, a supposedly late-night club, but it shut at 12!

Propaganda art in Hanoi

2006-04-04T15:10:00.000-07:00

Was taken to one of the best places in Hanoi to buy freshly cured ‘Thit Bo Kho’ on Hang Bong St. Delicious chewy blocks of beef jerky which expand in the mouth the more you chew, releasing a salt beef chilli sensation. Highly addictive stuff and surprisingly filling too!

R & Y bought me an original propaganda artwork from aptly named Propaganda art gallery. The message means: ‘Strongly promote industrialization and modernization for the goal of a strong nation, prosperous people and democratic society.’ It’s a perfect example of high-impact advertising using a bold, bright and graphic style that draws your attention. The artist, Luong Anh Dung, now fifty-three, graduated from Hanoi Industrial Art College and has worked for the government as a propaganda artist since 1968. He said: ‘I believe in socialist ideals. If I didn’t, I could not create my paintings.’ Dung’s inspiration comes from his faith in the system and he always paints in bold strokes, bright colours and simple repetitive shapes, with human characters with large, identical features.

Despite the country’s gradual move towards capitalism, you can see government-sanctioned socialist art all over Vietnam. Bold paintings on billboards up to thirty feet across dominate public areas and national roads. Red is used for political messages and blue is used for cultural or social messages. The paintings serve as messages from the government to its citizens so typical messages would be: HAVE ONLY TWO CHILDREN! GROW MORE POTATOES! RESPECT YOUR ELDERS!

Cha Ca-tastic!

2006-04-04T15:06:00.000-07:00

Lunch was taken at ‘the oldest restaurant in Vietnam, open since 1871’ at Cha Ca La Vong, 14 Pho Cha Ca. R & Y wanted me to try the local speciality of Cha Ca, truly delicious crispy pieces of firm white fish, fried with spring onions, shallots, yellow onions, parsley and sweet dill. We climbed a steep, creaky wooden staircase to find a room full of local families eating together with gusto. I knew I was in for a treat! As soon as we sat down, a bowl of rice vermicelli arrived, followed by a clay-pot full of burning coals. A huge plate of fresh herbs and various dipping sauces were added to the table before a sizzling pan of golden yellow fish was brought through from the kitchen. Help yourself and keep adding fresh herbs to the pan until all is eaten.

At that very moment I realised why I love eating Vietnamese food so much; in England we are accustomed to having one dish with our ‘meat and three veg’ in one go. Part of the enjoyment of eating out here is that you can play around with your food, adding fresh ingredients to every bite, dipping, wrapping, and slurping, to create a different mouthful each time, with the simplest yet finest ingredients. Every meal is a different experience, a new ritual and a shared enjoyment of food. As I near the end of my trip I begin to feel fearful that I haven’t tasted enough, and this is really the only country in the world that I have discovered that I could eat day in, day out.

Scooby Snacks

2006-04-04T15:03:00.000-07:00

Hard to ignore the country’s treatment of animals, especially pet dogs, which are often tied to short pieces of string and never taken for walks. Today I realised why their owners were perhaps hesitant to let them loose; dog is a food speciality and this restaurant on Tran Nhat Duat was packed full of appreciative diners.

Flowers sellers, Dong Xuan market

2006-04-04T14:56:00.000-07:00

19th March 2006

HANOI

I felt that my whistle-stop tour would not be complete without a visit to Ha Noi. Its name means ‘River Exterior’ and is a reference to the Red River; 100km of its dikes embrace the city. I feel so privileged to have lots of kind friends willing to host me as I travel from South to North. I've been so inspired by this beautiful country and its people and have been writing and taking photos every day. Today I was shown the sites of Hanoi from the back of a motorbike with R as my host and tour guide, and B (his cute 5 year old son) between us. The Northern capital is a lot more chilled than Sai Gon, with 1.2m inhabitants compared to the former capital’s 4.5m, so riding around is safer and the only true way to explore the city. Motorcyclists even stop at red lights here! The city has an air of a provincial French town in the 1930s with its blocks of ochre buildings, peaceful lakes, shaded boulevards and green public parks.

The morning was spent wandering the Old Quarter, which is made up of 36 narrow streets seemingly dedicated to specific areas of trade. My trusty guide introduced them as ‘Cloth Street, Food Street, Stamp Street etc’, which made me wonder how any of them ever make any money due to all the competition but I guess that’s communism for you!

R and I popped into a coffee shop for an elevenses caffeine fix – I am now seriously addicted to Vietnamese coffee and love to watch patiently while black melts into white. I was also able to revisit my love for coffee and cigarettes, as here you are able to buy a single cigarette to accompany my coffee. Wouldn’t it be great if you could do this in the UK? One is always enough (for me at least) and I’m sure there are lots of other ‘social smokers’ who would love to indulge occasionally in this way.

2006-04-04T14:46:00.000-07:00

18th March 2006

SATURDAY IN SAIGON

T has always been my perfect shopping companion and if she weren’t working in travel, she’d be the perfect Personal Shopper/Stylist. She knows exactly what I like and where to get it, which saved me days of getting lost and returning empty-handed. Phew. Got most of my shopping done around Ton That Thiep St and even had time to pop into Fanny’s for ice cream. T says it’s a typical meeting place for Vietnamese women instead of bars, as the majority don’t drink or smoke. Saigon Kitsch is a great shop, 50s-style retro with commie-prop gallery upstairs. Shopped out, we took a taxi to L’Apothiquaire, 63 Le Thanh Ton St, District 1 for some serious pampering. This day spa is set in an apothecary-style French 100-year old building with limed woods, lilac shutters and a great pool.

Ready to hit the tiles, we decided to splash out and go for dinner at Xu Restaurant Lounge, Level One, 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, District 1. As with most exclusive new establishments, you must know its elusive address; with no glamorous entrance, you have to go down an alleyway then up a non-descript staircase to get to the restaurant. Once there, you enter a haven of minimalist cool, with chandeliers projected on the ceiling, dark teak walls, and low lighting to create a club-style intimacy. The fusion cuisine is equally cool, dishes such as seared black bass and durian tiramisu make this a restaurant to watch.

Everyone who’s anyone makes it to Q Bar, 7 Cong Truong, District 1 at some point in the evening. The place is crawling with gorgeous women, Ipa-Nimas in hand. The Lychee Martinis are rather yummy, as are the Passionfruit Martinis. According to an ‘en vogue’ fashion magazine, Kate Moss, Robert De Niro and Daryl Hannah like to frequent this place, but when I showed the article to a Q Bar ex-employee and regular, she laughed hysterically. Q Bar is obviously not a great spot for celeb spotting. But it is for the It-girls and boys of Saigon.

Hoi An tailors

2006-04-04T14:43:00.000-07:00

16th March 2005

HOI AN

Got up early to cycle down to the local market to watch the locals haggling over fish, spices and vegetables. People buy their fresh products every day, sometimes twice a day, so they take real joy in selecting the perfect ingredient each time. Went back to the Mango Rooms for a light lunch and enjoyed a nice chat with Duc and his friends. Had dessert at Tam Tam Café opposite; I’m not a big fan of ice cream normally but since I’ve been in Vietnam, I’ve developed a real taste for it. I had lemon and mango sorbet, and vanilla ice-cream, which came decorated with long strips of yellow, red and green sugared papaya delicately curled around each scoop, topped off with a green papaya cigarette shaped wafer – heaven!

Then headed off for my third (and final) fitting at Yaly, praying that I’d still fit into my suit after this indulgence. The suit and two pairs of trousers fitted like a dream but my camisole was sadly far too small to fit over my head. So while I waited for the alterations, Ngu, the resident beauty queen, gave me a manicure and pedicure. Propped myself up on the safe while she took control of my bruised and tired feet. Even got a lush foot massage! Got to watch the money woman in action, gleefully counting the notes as a steady stream of Westerners paid for their clothes. Not one person had a complaint and I was impressed that they packaged up and labelled all the items too. A nice touch.

Finally got to interview the boss, Quynh Trinh Diem and got a very interesting insight into how the business is run and why the industry is thriving. She took me upstairs to give me a tour of the workshop and introduced me to the main tailors, seamstresses and embroiderers. I’d expected to find a sweatshop of bored and frustrated workers but Quynh was so proud of her happy workforce that she left me to wander round, take photos and talk to whoever I wished. I wanted to find out whether the staff had any grievances about working long hours to meet traveller’s deadlines. I was pleased to discover that they seemed to enjoy the challenge of creating different garments each day. I’ve got loads of interesting material from this visit so I think there’s an article or two to be written on the subject.

Yaly Couture

2006-04-04T14:40:00.000-07:00

15th March 2005

HOI AN

Staying at Ancient House Resort on Cua Dia, a small boutique hotel with spacious, immaculate and stylish rooms. Can imagine that this would be a good place for honeymooners, as the service is discreet and the gardens and pool are beautiful. Got an upgrade on the second day to a room with a balcony so I can now sit outside and write, which is a marked improvement.

I get free bike rental here so I’ve been out exploring. Riding a bike after so long and in Asia was a thrilling experience. Make me think how much quicker I could get about and see so much more. Today I cycled off the beaten track for a good 2 hours until I came to a boatyard where I pulled up for a refreshing drink. Don’t think these people see many white faces round here. I was drinking alone then suddenly there were about 15 faces staring at me. Curiosity got the better of one old man who hopped on his moped and escorted me down the road! I noticed that even this far out, huge speakers blast out propaganda messages – I sympathise for the poor family who get to have the speaker right next to their window!

Hoi An is renowned for its tailors, who will custom make any item of clothing you dream up. The streets are lined with hundreds of tailor shops with mannequins parading all the latest styles and fabrics. This is a shopper’s paradise, and if you want a copy of any designer item, this is the place to come, and you’ll still have change for lunch too.

I chose Yaly Couture, 47 Nguyen Thai Hoc, after a few recommendations. It is more expensive than other shops here but I’ve been told the quality is better. The word has obviously got out about Yaly as it is the most popular in town. There’s a constant stream of people being measured or coming for their second or third fitting. Watched a group of Italian men getting lots of attention as they pranced about in their new suits. Surely a good sign if the Italians are here..

When you first enter the shop, you can browse the rails of samples or flick through the catalogues to choose a design. I’d come prepared, with a pair of trousers and a dress that I wanted copying. Melissa, a beautiful Sales Assistant dressed in a chocolate brown Ao dai, a close-fitting blouse with long panels on front and back, worn over cream trousers, helped me choose materials. Once you’ve given the go-ahead, you are ushered into another room where you are meticulously measured from top to bottom. Melissa shouts out various numbers to another girl who writes them all down in a big black book. A photo is also taken to help the tailors see your body shape. The whole experience is fun and there is a real buzz about the place that is helped along by the constant humming from the sewing machines upstairs and the tailors who run up and down with new items ready for fitting. I got so carried away that I ordered a suit and a camisole, as I’d found some beautiful chocolate silk with dragonflies on that I had to have! Hoping to get behind the scenes tomorrow and meet the owner.

Went for dinner at The Mango Rooms, 111 Nyugen Trai Hoc, which is run by the charismatic Duc, a Viet-Kieu with a big smile and great taste in shirts. The menu is Asian-fusion and makes a nice change from traditional Vietnamese food. The interior is vibrant and colourful, with formal-ish dining to the front of the restaurant, and a more intimate, laid-back vibe in the back room. Walk through the kitchen and say hello to the chefs on your way to the back room where you can sit on raised tatami mats and watch fishing boats pass on the river. Choosing what to eat is difficult, as it all sounds so delicious! Just ask the friendly staff for their recommendations. Despite having a slightly dodgy stomach, I opted for Exotic Dance: ginger and garlic king prawns, wrapped in beef with a peppery butter-soy sauce. This was exceptional but my stomach did not enjoy the spices so much to my disappointment, I had to opt for ginger tea for dessert. Will have to return tomorrow.

View from Hoi An footbridge

2006-04-04T14:15:00.000-07:00

14th March 2006

HOI AN

Drove past the memorable Marble Mountains en route to Hoi An. A real highlight of the trip so far has been this UNESCO World Heritage Site. Hoi An is an exceptionally well-preserved example of a Southeast Asian trading port dating from the 15th to the 19th century. Its buildings and its street plan reflect both indigenous and foreign influences. You can get lost for days wandering the streets, or take a ride along the banks of the Mekong, past the paddy fields to the beach.

Visited Ly’s café on Nyugen Hue to meet Ly, who has owned this restaurant for the past 10 years. I’d been sent to say hello from F and taste her Cao Lao. I expected someone older but instead was warmly greeted by a beautiful, trendy young woman who smelt really good too! I was lucky to stumble on the place as I’d forgotten the address, and the strange thing is that I didn’t realise I was at Ly’s until I picked up the menu! I’d left it quite late to look for a meal (10pm) so most places had shut up. I’d be attracted to the place as I’d seen a red lantern glowing off the main thoroughfare of Tran Phu, and when I approached, an old man had smiled at me and ushered me in. Sometimes I believe you are meant to be somewhere and tonight I’d hit gold. Despite the kitchen being officially closed, I got a fresh bowl of Cao Lao and tucked straight in. Based on the soba noodle soups of Japan, this local speciality contains thin slices of grilled pork, rice noodles, crispy squares of pork fat, bean sprouts and greens. It is traditionally served with a flat, crisp rice cracker, which you can crack and crumble into the dish, then add rice vinegar, stir and then enjoy! I welcomed the crunchy texture created by the pork and rice ‘croutons’, which balanced well with the soft noodles and tangy limejuice. All washed down with Biere Larue, which is a crisp, refreshing local beer from Danang. Have no idea why people drink Tiger out here, it’s full of chemicals and gives you a horrendous hangover.

Citroen Traction Avant, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

2006-04-02T15:08:00.000-07:00

12th March 2006

HO CHI MINH CITY

Just back from Phan Thiet, Mui Ne Beach, a relaxed beach town in Binh Thuan province, 200km northeast from Ho Chi Minh City. This was a good call on T’s behalf as it was the perfect place to recuperate from jetlag and a gentle transition into Vietnam. I jumped straight from the plane into a minibus although I might as well have stepped into a game of Wipeout. My head was spinning from the lack of sleep and rank wine that I was swigging but nothing quite prepared me for this first road trip. If you thought the Greeks or the Thais drove like crazy people, then you've seen nothing. There are no rules other than if you are overtaking, it is up to the oncoming vehicle to slow down. If the car in front is moving too slowly, you simply tailgate and hoot continuously until they move out the way. If they don’t, you accelerate to overtake, keep hooting and hope for the best. Motorcyclists don't always put their lights on at night either- apparently that's simply a waste of battery! Needless to say there are a lot of accidents here - 30 people a day get killed in Sai Gon alone. My fellow passengers (all work in the travel industry out here) reassured me that they had hired a good driver so I just closed my eyes and hoped for the best. Weird thing is that none of the drivers appear to have road rage, even when people do really ridiculous manoeuvres while totally drunk and swerving all over the road. I thought I was an erratic driver, but I have lessons to learn from this mysterious race.

13th March 2006

LOST IN SAIGON

Today was my first chance to get out and about in Saigon as T had to work. First challenge involved crossing the road. I have never seen so many motorcyclists in one city. Discovered the best way of getting across involves slowly walking out while the motorcyclists and taxis weave past you. Eye contact with oncoming motorcyclists also helps.

T lives on the edge of District 1 in a shared, fully serviced apartment with fellow TI employees. Miss Tu, the maid comes to wash, clean and tidy 6 days a week. Never thought I’d feel comfortable about having all my dirty clothes and plates cleaned, but she seems more than happy to oblige and uses the place as a second home. Apparently the phone only rings for her!

Met T for lunch outside her tower block. At 12noon exactly, a stream of workers rushed out the building, to go and eat locally. It made me smile to watch the Vietnamese women put their parasols up to guard their skin from the sun. Us Westerners are obsessed with getting dark skin, yet for them it is the reverse! Went to an excellent restaurant called Hoang Yen, 7-9 Ngo Duc Ke, District 1. Loved Bong Bi - melon flowers fried in garlic and chilli, a cross between a long green beans and okra with a sweet aftertaste. So much more to taste and see – I simply can’t wait until my next meal!

Went for what seemed like an easy stroll to Reunification Palace, past Notre Dame and Eiffel’s Post Office. Got lost and went on a complete detour after some rather dubious directions from several park wardens. Decided the only thing to do was find a place to chill and refresh myself while I worked out where the hell I was. A good call as I strolled past the stylish Café Terrace, 65 Le Loi St and noticed the cakes. Didn’t take much to drag me in. Ordered a sumptuous Opera cake and iced coffee that I gulped along with a lungful of fumes. My table even had a goldfish in bowl to keep me company. Perfect.

Culinary highlight of the day (if not the trip) was an evening meal at Quan An Ngon, 138 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, District 1. It’s so popular that you need to get in early. I was slightly dubious when I heard the restaurant was a collection of street food stalls brought under one roof. Was it catering for the lazy and unadventurous who can’t be bothered to try real street food? I was more than proved wrong, the owner has simply brought all the good street food under one roof so that you can sample it all in one place. Tables are crammed into the open-air terrace surrounded by tropical palms and fans that spray a refreshing mist into the air. All around the sides are stalls were the food is prepared in front of you. Walking around the stalls to choose what to order is part of the fun. My favourite dish was So huyet xao, blood oysters in garlic. Opening them was a mystery at first but my amused neighbours took delight in showing me how to get the damn things open! The Chao tom, shrimp on sugar cane was exceptional, as was Cua rang, crab in tamarind sauce. Desserts were equally impressive, of which the banana cake was my favourite; moist and complex. The place is buzzing to the point that we were all wolfing down the food with excitement. I could have stayed there all night under the stars trying out different dishes.

Onto Lush, 2 Ly Tu Trong St, District 1, for Monday’s hip-hop night. Lush is an ultra-trendy bar with comfy sofas, huge graffiti-style artwork and mirrored ceilings. Not as full as I expected which is a shame seeing as this seems to be the only place for decent music in town.

Aide-memoire

2006-03-28T12:57:00.000-08:00

Hello and welcome to my personal blog; a clearing house for a freelance writer's random thoughts, observations and discoveries. Kindly bear with me while I get my head round this new, exciting medium.